The Kandy → Ella train is genuinely as good as the photos. It is also 7 hours long, often 90 minutes late, and rarely has functioning air-conditioning. Here is how to enjoy it anyway.
The route
The full line runs Kandy → Peradeniya → Hatton → Nanu Oya (for Nuwara Eliya) → Haputale → Ella → Badulla. The most scenic 3.5 hours are Nanu Oya → Ella, so if you're short on time, take a car to Nuwara Eliya and just ride that leg.
Which class?
- 1st class observation: AC, rear-facing panoramic window, no opening doors. Comfortable, but you can't stick your head out.
- 2nd class reserved: Our pick. Fan-cooled, opening windows, and — crucially — you can stand at the open doorway. The famous photos are all taken from here.
- Unreserved: Standing room only from Kandy. Skip unless you're on a very tight budget.
How to book
Reserved tickets open 30 days ahead on Seat61 or through your driver-guide. In the June-August and December-January peaks they sell out in an hour. If you missed them, agencies in Kandy will sometimes still have "tourist quota" seats at a small markup.
Where to sit
Between Nanu Oya and Ella, sit on the right-hand side heading east — that's the valley side. Between Ella and Kandy going the other way, the right-hand side is again the valley.
What to bring
Water (nothing sold onboard past Hatton), a snack, a light jacket for the hill sections, and a phone charger — the outlets often work in second class.